SKIN
PROBLEMS, PARASITES and INSECTICIDES
By Kathleen Lyvers
Introduction
In the course of grooming, you will
undoubtedly experience external abnormalities on an animal that may otherwise
go undetected, even by a veterinarian. Just to name a few: Skin irritation,
allergies, growths, ear mites and/or infections, external parasites (fleas,
ticks, mites), and injuries. You can assist with treatment in some cases,
and always report your findings to the pet's owner.
Medical terms and descriptions, in part,
are taken from Pet-Vet (http://www.pet-vet.com/), authored by Dr.
Lowell Ackerman, board certified veterinary dermatologist.
SKIN PROBLEMS
Skin allergy in dogs is more prevalent in
certain areas of the country. A warm, humid climate seems to be the worst for
allergies because of conditions that encourage fungal and bacterial growth, as
well as being the perfect climate in which fleas thrive year round. A dog
suffers skin allergies in much the same way that we suffer respiratory
allergies; the dog's skin responds to the same type of allergens: pollen,
dust, household chemicals and certain foods, and the allergic reaction, even
from inhaled irritants, will be manifested on the dog's skin. While it is not
our job to diagnose, we can certainly make the owner aware of the problem and
perhaps, through experience, recommend some steps to be taken to remedy the
problem.
I don't have to examine a dog's skin to
know it has a problem...I can smell it! While dogs most assuredly have doggie
odors, there is a particular odor that always accompanies allergy. Fleas, or
even a flea may have initiated the problem. Yes, a single flea on a dog with
fleabite allergy can literally drive that dog to scratching and biting himself
senseless. In addition, there is always the possibility of secondary
infection, in which case the dog will require antibiotic and/or antifungal
treatment to recover.
The groomer's role in all this is to first,
make the owner aware; second, take care in clipping this already irritated
skin; third, be sure to remove all parasites from skin and coat; and last,
inform the owner of additional problems he/she may encounter after grooming. I
have often experienced this scenario: a heavy coated dog (such as a cocker) (Photos
Attached) with a history of allergy and fungal infections comes in matted
and dirty (obviously the yard dog). The owners, of course, would prefer a
standard cocker groom, but you convince them the dog has to be stripped
because of his apparent condition and because the clip- down would aid in the
healing process. You should warn the owner beforehand: the dog should see a
veterinarian and, in addition, inform them that you will take every
precaution, yet it is likely the dog will scratch itself raw after the groom.
I have always contended the reason for this is that in removing the matted
coat, as well as clipping the toenails, you afford the animal the opportunity
to get in some really great scratching...something it missed out on when the
coat was clumped over the skin surface. Those itchy spots just weren't as
accessible. I take extra precaution by using a benzocaine spray
or applying zinc oxide to the more irritated areas. I also buff the
rear toenails to lessen the damage they can do when just trimmed.
Some of the more common types of allergy
I've encountered are:
Flea Bite Allergy/Dermatitis -
sometimes pimply rash accompanied by pungent odor caused by constant licking
and chewing, particularly to groin and lower back/tail base area; itch may
continue for a time after fleas are removed.
Contact Dermatitis - itching,
irritation at site of contact, for example: collar rubbing on neck, carpet
treatment products on tummy and underchest.
About 10% of all canine allergy is food
allergy. There is little we can do to help out with this one, other than
to recommend the owner see a vet for skin testing and/or try changing the
pet's diet (usually to a lamb & rice formula). You may also experience
allergy in cats, which manifests itself in raised, scabby patches about the
head, ears and neck. Again, there is little we can do aside from informing the
owner of the find.
Other skin problems include, but are not
limited to:
Hormone-related hair loss and Seborrhea
- excessive dander, skin and hair is oily and crusty; use an anti-seborrheic
shampoo.
Fungal infection - smelly, moist
areas; hair loss on armpits, between toes and pads, neckline where collar rubs
on folds of skin; use antiseptic, anti-fungal shampoo.
NOTE: all conditions mentioned above are
subject to secondary infection; if suspected, advise the owner to seek
veterinary care immediately.
GROWTHS & INJURIES
Because we have the opportunity to examine
every inch of a pet's body during the course of grooming, we are more likely
that a vet, during examination, to uncover various types of growths: moles,
cysts, hernias, and tumors. Extra care should be taken during clipping to
avoid disturbing these growths. Other findings that may require veterinary
attention are aural hematoma (hemorrhage in the area between skin and
ear cartilage) and eye injuries including cherry eye (infected tear
duct), ulcers, and dry socket.
I have discovered innumerable eye
injuries/problems in the normal course of a groom (many long coated breeds
come in desperately in need of a trim about the bangs; their owners may not be
aware of "underlying" problems). Some dogs have had their eyes
covered over for such an extended period of time that, in some cases, their
eyes are literally glued shut with dried discharge. The dog may have scratched
an eye that has begun to ulcerate, or have an infected tear duct or dry
socket. I have found that, in many instances, the owner is totally unaware. Report
all eye irregularities to the owner.
The following are brief descriptions of
skin abnormalities:
· lick sores - habitual licking at ankles, hocks and elbows; there is also a condition that causes loss of feeling in the lower limbs...the dog may lick and chew his own flesh to the point of mutilation
· ringworm - crusty, red round patches, usually seen in cats
· warts - found anywhere on the body, face and limbs; ulcerated moles may be cancerous
· cysts - hard, round lumps varying in size; usually roll under the skin, or more superficial may burst and drain on occasion
· tumors - lumps under the skin which may or may not be malignant; may are "fatty" tumors which are not life-threatening, yet may require surgery if grow to large proportions or attach to organs
PARASITES
Demodectic Mange
A condition in both dogs and cats, which is
considered non-contagious, marked by hair loss and red, infected areas. A pet
diagnosed with demodectic mange is best left to a vet's care. I would not turn
away a regular customer when requesting routine baths using a vet prescribed
benzoyl peroxide shampoo for topical treatment, yet I would have to draw the
line if asked to administer to the application of the only effective product
licensed for this purpose. Although I have complied with customer requests on
occasion in the past, experience has taught me that I would have to refuse in
the future; brand name *Mitiban is a highly toxic dip, has an
overpowering odor and, therefore, I'd simply rather not have it on the
premises. Again, this product is best administered by a veterinarian.
*Pesticides/Insecticides, including some of
our commonly used dips, are under scrutiny and, in some states, are being
banned or used only under strict government guidelines. Check for restrictions
in your area prior to stocking and using an insecticide.
Sarcoptic Mange
A condition in dogs caused by scabies mites
(differs from the species in humans) that causes affected areas to itch, crust
and scab over (usually areas about the ears, elbows and hocks. Sarcoptic is
more difficult than demodectic for a vet to diagnose, though easier to treat.
Because it is highly contagious to other dogs, I would not hesitate to refuse
service to a customer whose dog I suspect or know to be harboring scabies
mites.
Otodectic Mange (Ear Mites)
Ear mites are common to both dogs and cats.
Although this condition is highly contagious, it is usually confined to the
ear canal. I do not refuse service to animals with ear mites; the condition is
all too common and we can be of some assistance in treatment. The signs are
characterized by a dark or red-black discharge plugging the ear canal. The pet
may constantly scratch his ears or shake his head; *these actions can cause
further trauma.
If ear mites are suspected, recommend the
customer seek medical attention in order to obtain an insecticidal ear wash.
(It is not always mandatory to see a vet, yet it is wise to have the animal
examined for secondary ear infections.) As a groomer you may assist in the
application of same; this is best done while the animal is in the tub because
you will also want to apply an insecticide to the dog's entire body in the
event the mites evacuate the ear canal). If the owner is to treat the ear
canal with the prescribed medication, the ear canal must be thoroughly
cleansed. I accomplish this by filling the ear canal with an ear wash that is
designed to loosen all exudates as well as coat the ear canal. I message the
ear and allow it to set for a few minutes. I then flush the ear canal with
warm water...there is absolutely no other means of effectively removing this
discharge. The ear must be thoroughly cleansed prior to application of ear
mite remedy.
Also note that otodectic mange can result
in secondary ear infections. Often, ear mite remedies will contain both
insecticides and antibiotics. Stress the importance of a vet check if
secondary infection is suspected.
*scratching may result in abrasions
about the ears and face, particularly after grooming...my experience has been
the once the ear is cleansed, the dog will be even more attentive to the ear
area and scratch or rub the sides of the face raw (beware: this is often
mistaken for clipper burn; be certain to inform the owner of possible
reactions).
-and-
shaking the head may result in aural
hematoma (hemorrhage in the area between skin and ear cartilage) requiring
surgery; be sure to inform the owner of any lumps or raised areas in the
ear leather.
Concluding this section on mites, I will
mention that other mites affecting pets do exist; yet I have no firsthand
knowledge of them. Therefore, I cannot pass on any helpful information other
than to remind you that any and all irregularities on a pet's skin and coat
should be reported to the owner. Whether or not he seeks medical attention is
left to his discretion, but I would not hesitate, in some cases, to refuse
service if a serious problem is not attended to.
Fleas
"faster than a speeding
bullet!....able to leap tall buildings in a single bound!"... Well,
sometimes it seems that way.
Fleas are a dog's (and cat's) worst
enemies. New flea control products are being introduced yearly, yet those
darned little bugs are getting harder and harder to control. Fleas thrive in
warm, humid conditions, but can turn up in any climate. Some animals,
particularly cats, can withstand flea infestation with only minimal discomfort
while others are driven to scratching and chewing by a single flea bite. It is
our job to effectively remove all fleas present on the pet at the time of
grooming; we may also be called upon to brief a customer on flea control,
therefore it is always wise to educate yourself on the topic of fleas, the
role they play regarding allergy, and flea control.
Not all pets are allergic to fleas,
likewise, not all allergies are due to fleas. The allergic reaction to flea
bites is caused by something present in flea saliva, and the pet need not be
infested to suffer an allergic reaction. Diagnosis is best left to a vet, yet
with time and experience you may come to readily recognize a fleabite allergy.
The dog may continue to itch for days after the fleas are removed from its
environment, yet its condition will improve with time and the absence of
fleas. Note: Even though the dog will leave you shop flea free, it will not
stay that way unless the owner has taken the necessary measures to rid his
home and yard of fleas. As a groomer, you should familiarize yourself with
various types of flea control in order to serve your customers as well as
properly administer the application of insecticides.
Ticks
I have done a great deal of research on
ticks and have only this to say: Nasty, nasty, nasty!! I'm sorry but I refuse
to service dogs with ticks; the likelihood that these parasites will transmit
deadly disease is too great. I pity the poor animal with a tick infestation,
yet I will not subject my staff, my clients or myself to the possibility of
infection. If an owner discovers his/her dog has ticks, he/she should consult
a veterinarian for advice on treatment and removal.
Note: I would not refuse to treat a
regular client that has recently picked up a couple of ticks. I am, herein,
referring to the neglected backyard pet that the owner drags out of the yard
every year or so in order to bathe.
*Types of Insecticides
Pyrethrins are natural insecticides
and are considered safest; Synthetic pyrethrins, while not as safe, are
stronger and more residual; this group includes permethrin, which is
effective as well as safe.
Carbamates are more toxic and last
longer.
Organophosphates are most toxic.
The aforementioned are usually found as
ingredients in dips and sprays. For your own safety as well as the pet's, I
personally do not recommend usage of either carbamates or
organophosphates. I have successfully killed fleas for years using a
pyrethrin dip. Keep in mind that the directions for use always state that the
pet should be air dried, yet this is not always possible due to fluff drying
and styling. If the pet does not air dry, the residual effect of the dip is
greatly reduced. Your customers should be advised when fleas are found and
reminded that if the pet is returned to an untreated environment, it will be
reinfested.
Owners can take steps in control and
prevention by using a flea control product on the pet at home and by treating
the house and yard. To-date, the product with which I'm most impressed is
Frontline(fipronil). It is generally *safe for usage on dogs and cats of every
age and is very effective. The really great advantage to this **spritzed-on
insecticide is the fact that it kills and repels fleas and ticks for a month
or more with only one application and, of particular interest to the
groomer, the pet can be bathed without diminishing effectiveness between
applications. Other topically applied products claim to be effective for a
month provided the animal is not bathed for the interim (this tends to deter
the weekly/biweekly customer's visit).
*Be sure to read package insert as there
are warnings regarding application; there have been isolated cases of reaction
in pets. For your info!
**Frontline(fipronil) is now available in
vials to be applied to the dog's upper back just below the neckline. This form
of the insecticide is effective for 3 months per application and, again, the
pet can be bathed between applications.
An oral Insect Development Inhibitor
has recently been introduced (commonly referred to as the "flea
pill"- Program) yet, having been on the market for about 1-1/2
years as of this writing, I personally cannot attest to its effectiveness in
cases of extreme infestation or in situations where reinfestation is likely to
occur. While Program does effectively sterilize your resident flea population,
it can and must be used along with premises control (chemically treating house
and yard).
Insect Growth Regulators keep
immature fleas from developing into adults and can be found in combination
with another type of insecticide to kill adult fleas as well. This is
particularly useful in treating the house and yard.
Sodium polyborate (borax) is
effective and safe for use in the home. This "powder" can be
commercially applied or purchased and applied by the homeowner. I can vouch
for its effectiveness...customers who have used it remain flea free (without
having treated the yard) for a year after the initial application.
Maintaining a flea free yard requires year
round, monthly treatments if in
warm, humid coastal areas (especially Gulf Coast states) of the count
IMPORTANT: Remember, never mix
chemicals on a pet and never use insecticides on a cat unless
specifically formulated for cats.
SUMMARY
Always endeavor to serve your customers
with utmost regard for the safety and well-being of their pets. Keep a record
of any irregularities you encounter and be certain to pass it along to the
owner. It's sometimes irritating when a customer responds, "Yeah, I know,
but ..blah ..blah ..blah..." (especially when you can tell that he has
done nothing to remedy the problem), yet it's best to mention it anyway.
Making this part of your routine could also prevent you from being blamed for
some injury the pet sustained prior to coming into your shop.
Remember, it is always best to ask the
owner as to his preferences regarding insecticides (to dip...or not to dip).
Make it clear that, if his pet is infested, some method of flea removal will
have to be executed if you are to service his dog. In general, the customer
making the most fuss over using chemicals on his pet is the customer who,
either doesn't want to pay the extra charge for dip or, sincerely believes you
will poison his animal. I attempt to assure the customer that I do not use an
extremely toxic dip because of the simple fact that we have to administer
application of same and prefer not to poison ourselves. I say this with a
smile but it is certainly the truth. Our job is not without hazard and we
should do our best to safeguard ourselves against job-related ill-health and
injury.
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